Sälen or Hemsedal – which one suits you best?

Sälen or Hemsedal? Short answer: Hemsedal has steeper slopes, greater vertical drop and a more distinct mountain feel with bare peaks above the tree line, whilst Sälen has more runs in total, a shorter journey time from most parts of Sweden and Sweden’s widest selection of large private mountain chalets. If you’re experienced skiers who prioritise a challenge, there’s a strong case for Hemsedal. If you’re a mixed group with varying levels of skiing ability, there’s a strong case for Sälen.

This is a comparison between two destinations that are actually quite similar in terms of travel arrangements – car, holiday cottage and self-catering – which means that the choice comes down to the finer details rather than the overall nature of the holiday. For a group sharing accommodation, the section on costs at the bottom is often the deciding factor; for those who already know they’ll be travelling in a large group, there is holiday cottages for a group of friends in Sälen collected on a separate page.

Quick comparison: Sälen or Hemsedal side by side

This is how the towns compare with one another on the issues that usually make the difference:

• Height of fall and steepness: Hemsedal has a significantly greater vertical drop and more runs classified as steep – Sälen has a moderate vertical drop and a predominantly gentle profile.
• Width of the ski area: Sälen has more runs in total, spread across several connected resorts – Hemsedal has fewer, but they are longer and more challenging.
• Journey time: Sälen is about 4.5–5 hours from Stockholm – Hemsedal usually takes a few more hours, plus the time taken to cross the border.
• Cost situation: Prices for food, restaurants and accommodation are generally higher in Norway – in Sweden, you can shop in ordinary shops at normal prices.
• Accommodation for large groups: Sälen offers the country’s widest range of private accommodation with between ten and thirty beds – Hemsedal is dominated by smaller cabins and flats.
• Evenings: Hemsedal is renowned for its lively nightlife in the town centre – Sälen offers après-ski across four venues.

The slopes – vertical drop, steepness and variation

This is where Hemsedal’s true strength lies, and that must be said without reservation. Hemsedal boasts a vertical drop that Sälenfjällen cannot come close to matching, terrain that rises above the tree line, and a significant proportion of black runs with a proper gradient. Experienced skiers, and particularly those who enjoy steep sections and freeriding in open mountain terrain, will get more out of a week in Hemsedal. Sälen is built on a different principle: four interconnected resorts plus Stöten and Kläppen in the same valley, with an emphasis on wide, gentle runs, very large practice areas and a few genuinely steep sections. This creates a ski resort that’s easier to organise for a group with mixed ability levels – beginners, teenagers and experienced skiers can all start on the same lift and meet up at the same café. The number of runs and lifts involved is shown in how many lifts the Sälen has, and the drop height in Sälenfjällen is worth checking before you compare figures from the Norwegian side.

Journey times and routes from different parts of Sweden

From the Mälardalen region, the difference is clear. Sälen can be reached in around four and a half to five hours from Stockholm, mainly on good roads. Hemsedal lies further into Norway and, in practice, involves a considerably longer drive, often involving a mountain pass and always a border crossing. From Gothenburg and the west coast, the difference shrinks noticeably and Hemsedal becomes a reasonable option in terms of travel time. From Norrland, both are a long way away. Apart from the journey time, there are two practical considerations: winter road conditions on Norwegian mountain roads can be more challenging than on the route to Sälen, and you should be aware of the rules at the border regarding food, alcohol and fuel. If you’re planning a long weekend, the extra travel time to Hemsedal often eats up a whole day’s skiing.

Accommodation and the total amount paid by the organisation

Both resorts are based on the same basic concept – you rent a house or a flat and cook your own meals – but the range of accommodation on offer differs. Hemsedal has plenty of cottages and flats sleeping between four and eight people, often to a high standard and with a traditional Norwegian cottage feel. Sälen has the widest selection in Sweden of truly large private houses: ten, twenty and, in some cases, thirty beds under one roof, often with a sauna, relaxation area, large dining room and several living rooms. For two people, it makes no difference. For a group of twelve friends or a family reunion, it’s often the whole point, as the alternative in Hemsedal would be to split up across several properties. If you want to stay where the distances are shortest, there are accommodation in Lindvallen near the lifts as a clear example of how Sälen’s ski-in/ski-out location works.

Families with children or groups of friends – who suits where

With young children, we tend to go for Sälen, and the reasons are practical rather than a matter of principle: a shorter car journey, very extensive children’s and beginners’ areas, a large number of ski school places and plenty to do on the days when the children don’t want to ski any more. With teenagers or a group of friends, most of whom have been skiing for ten years, Hemsedal is the better choice, as the steeper slopes simply offer more of a challenge and the evening entertainment is concentrated in one central area rather than spread out. A mixed group – grandparents, two generations of adults and children of different ages – will find it easier to organise their week in Sälen, where there’s something for every ability level and where there’s a house big enough to accommodate everyone. This isn’t a judgement on the destinations themselves, but a question of who you’re travelling with.

Prices, currency and the cost of living in Norway

The cost of living is the area where the most myths circulate, so here is the structural truth, without any excuses. Norway normally has higher prices for restaurants, food and alcohol than Sweden, and this makes a difference during a week of self-catering, as the food budget is one of the biggest expenses. At the same time, the exchange rate between the Swedish and Norwegian kroner fluctuates over time, and during periods when the krona is strong, the difference narrows. Ski passes and ski hire are in the same price bracket in both countries – Hemsedal isn’t dramatically more expensive there. The most reliable way to compare is to work out the total cost for the whole week for the entire group: accommodation plus food plus lift passes plus fuel, and to do so in the same currency. If you do this, Sälen usually works out slightly cheaper, with accommodation capacity being the single biggest factor.

When Hemsedal is the right choice

Choose Hemsedal if skiing is the main event of the week and your group consists of experienced skiers. The vertical drop, the steepness and the terrain above the tree line offer a skiing experience that, quite frankly, Sälen cannot match, and for those who want challenging runs day after day, this is crucial. Choose Hemsedal if you’re travelling from Gothenburg or the west coast and therefore don’t have to pay the full travel time surcharge. Choose Hemsedal if you’re a small group that can fit into a cabin and want a concentrated nightlife with everything within walking distance. And choose Hemsedal if you simply want to experience the Norwegian mountain landscape – it differs markedly from the rounded mountains of Dalarna and is a reason in itself. If you’d like to compare it with the Norwegian resort geographically closest to Sälen, there is A comparison between Sälen and Trysil.

Summary – how to choose between Sälen and Hemsedal

The question of whether to choose Sälen or Hemsedal is, in practice, determined by three factors. Water level: If the field is generally of a similar standard, Hemsedal wins on vertical drop and steepness; if the levels are varied, Sälen wins on width. Where you live: From the Mälardalen region, the journey to Hemsedal takes several extra hours by car; from the west coast, almost none at all. How many of you there are: For groups of more than eight people, Sälen’s range of large houses and the cost of living in Sweden are major factors; for groups of fewer than five, this is less of an issue. If you choose Sälen, we’ll be happy to help you find a house that suits the size of your group and your preferred distance from the ski lift.