Which mountain resort is best for cross-country skiing?

The best place for cross-country skiing in Sweden is Funäsfjällen. The interconnected network of trails around Funäsdalen, Tänndalen, Bruksvallarna and Ramundberget is the largest in the country; it is of a consistently high standard and opens earlier than anywhere else – usually as early as November. That answer should come first, because cross-country skiers choose a resort based on the trails and nothing else.

But Funäsfjällen isn’t for everyone. If you’re travelling with a group where only half of you do cross-country skiing, or if you’re looking for a shorter trip from the Mälardalen region, the picture is quite different. Here, we compare the resorts in terms of the length of trails, quality, early snow and accessibility – and how easy it is to get a cottage near the cross-country ski trails instead of driving to the platform every morning.

Quick comparison: the contenders for the best cross-country skiing destination in Sweden

Here is how the four most common options compare with one another:

• Funäsfjällen: Sweden’s largest contiguous network of ski runs, early snow and a consistently high standard of grooming.
• Grövelsjön: Trails close to the mountains with a bare-mountain feel; a smaller network but a unique environment and a long spring season.
• Vemdalen: Plenty of forest trails across three sub-areas, varied terrain and peaceful skiing.
• Sälen: An extensive and well-maintained network of trails, drawing on the heritage of the Vasaloppet, with floodlit loops and close links between accommodation and the trails.
• Åre and Hemavan: There are cross-country ski trails, but both resorts are primarily downhill skiing destinations.

Always check the trail report with the relevant trail operator before setting off – trail conditions vary more than snow depth does.

Early snow in November – where the season starts earliest

For those who want to get an early start, the choice is simple. Bruksvallarna and Ramundberget in Funäsfjällen are Sweden’s traditional starting points for the cross-country skiing season, with trails ready in November and a season opener that attracts the national team, elite skiers and recreational skiers from all over the country. The high altitude and northerly location mean that natural snow arrives early, and where there isn’t enough, artificial snow is brought in from the previous winter’s stockpile. No other Swedish resort offers this combination. If you’re looking for trails in November, Funäsfjällen is the answer, and it’s well worth the extra hours in the car.

Track kilometres versus track quality

The number of kilometres of trails is the figure that’s advertised – and the one that says the least. A 30-mil system where half the trails were groomed as recently as last week is worse than a 10-mil system that’s groomed every night. Instead, ask about three things: how often the trails are groomed, whether both classic and skate skiing are available across the entire network, and how the trails are connected – can you complete a 3-mil loop without crossing a road or needing transport? Funäsfjällen and Sälen both score well in terms of grooming frequency; the difference lies in the continuous length of the trails, where Funäsfjällen has more to offer those who want to go for really long sessions.

Trails near the mountains, forest trails and floodlit circuits

The type of terrain distinguishes these resorts from one another more than the distance between them does. Trails close to the mountains, such as those in Grövelsjön and parts of Funäsfjällen, run across bare mountain slopes with views stretching for miles – magnificent in the sunshine, but windy and challenging to navigate in bad weather. Forest trails, which dominate in Sälen and Vemdalen, are sheltered from the wind, can be used in all weathers and are considerably more beginner- and child-friendly. Illuminated trails are available in all resorts and are underrated in December and January, when daylight lasts for just a few hours. A good choice combines both: forest trails for everyday use, and a mountain trip when the weather permits. We’ll explore the character of Grövelsjön in A comparison between Sälen and Grövelsjön.

The Sälen cross-country ski trail and the legacy of the Vasaloppet

Sälen holds a special place as the starting point for the Vasaloppet, and this is evident in the track system: it is well-developed, well-maintained and has such a clear connection to the race that many people come here specifically to train on the course. The network is extensive, with floodlit loops, and the connection between residential areas and the trails is unusually close – in several areas, the trail practically runs right past people’s front doors. The terrain consists mainly of forest trails with a gentle gradient, making them more suitable for leisurely exercise than for a challenging run. We have described how cross-country skiing works in Sälen in detail, and everything about the race can be found at Vasaloppet.

Accommodation with the railway line right on your doorstep

For cross-country skiers, the location of accommodation is a completely different matter from that for downhill skiers. You want to be able to step outside, strap on your skis and set off – not load up a car, park at the start of a trail and get changed in sub-zero temperatures. This means that a resort with a high density of accommodation along the trail network is often more practical than one with more kilometres of trails but where accommodation is concentrated around the ski lifts. In this respect, Sälen scores highly, as the holiday homes are spread out throughout the entire trail network. Always ask the letter exactly how far it is to the nearest groomed trail, and whether there are facilities for drying skis and clothing. Accommodation with this type of location is listed under accommodation in a perfect location.

When you’re deciding between Funäsfjällen and Grövelsjön

Choose Funäsfjällen if cross-country skiing is the sole purpose of your trip, if you want to ski in November or early December, if you’re training for a race and need long, uninterrupted sessions, or if you want the best-groomed trails in the country. No other resort comes close, and there’s no point in pretending otherwise. Choose Grövelsjön if you’re looking for a mountain atmosphere, bare mountain slopes and tranquillity rather than the extent of the trail network, and if you’re experienced enough to read the weather in the open mountains. Choose Vemdalen if you want to combine peaceful forest skiing with a couple of days on the lift. Choose Sälen if you’re travelling with a mixed group where some people ski downhill, if you want a short journey from the Mälardalen region, or if you want to stay where the trail actually runs past the house.

Summary – match the best cross-country skiing destination in Sweden with your ambitions

Pure cross-country skiing ambition: Funäsfjällen, without a doubt. Early in the season: Bruksvallarna and Ramundberget. A mountain experience over distance: Grövelsjön. A mixed group, short journey time and trails right on your doorstep: Sälen. No single destination scores highly on all four points, and anyone who claims otherwise is trying to sell you something. Ask yourselves whether cross-country skiing is the main purpose of your trip or just one of several activities – the answer will immediately point you in the direction of the right destination. An overview of the Sälen system can be found at the cross-country ski tracks in Sälen, and if you’d like some help finding a house next to a groomed trail, please feel free to get in touch.